Having a Cup and a Debate at the Kavárna Slavia: The reincarnation of Prague's favorite dissident cafe -- reopened in the late 1990s after being closed since 1993 in a real-estate dispute -- retains its former Art Deco glory. The cloak-and-dagger interactions of secret police eavesdropping on political conversations may be gone, but there's still an energy that flows with the talk and java at the Slavia -- and it comes with a great view.

Making Your Own Procession Down the Royal Route: The downhill jaunt from Prague Castle, through Malá Strana (Lesser Town), and across Charles Bridge to Old Town Square, is a day in itself. The trip recalls the route taken by the carriages of the Bohemian kings; today it's lined with quirky galleries, shops, and cafes.

Getting Lost in Old Town: Every week a new cafe or gallery seems to pop up along the narrow winding streets of Staré Mesto (Old Town). Prague is best discovered by those who easily get lost on foot, and Old Town's impossible-to-navigate streets are made for such wanderings.

Taking a Slow Boat Down the Vltava: You can see many of the most striking architectural landmarks from the low-angle and low-stress vantage point of a rowboat you pilot yourself. At night, you can rent a dinghy with lanterns for a very romantic ride.

Riding a Faster Boat Down the Vltava: For those not willing to test navigational skills or rowing strength, large tour boats offer similar floating views, many with meals. Be sure to check the direction of your voyage so it flows past the castles and palaces.

Visiting a Large Communist-Era Housing Estate: Anyone wondering how most latter-day Praguers live should see the mammoth housing blocks called paneláky. The size astounds and piques the debate over form versus function and living versus surviving.

Picnicking on Vysehrad: Of all the parks where you can picnic, the citadel above the Vltava standing guard over the south end of the Old Town is the calmest and most interesting spot close to the center. Its more remote location means less tourist traffic, and the gardens, city panoramas, and national cemetery provide pleasant walks and poignant history.

Sharing a Moment with the Children of Terezín: On display at the Ceremonial Hall of the Old Jewish Cemetery are sketches drawn by children held at the Terezín concentration camp, northwest of Prague. These drawings are a moving lesson in the Nazi occupation of Bohemia and Moravia.

Strolling Across Charles Bridge at Dawn or Dusk: The silhouettes of the statues lining the 6-centuries-old crown jewel of Czech heritage hover like ghosts in the still of the sunrise skyline. Early in the morning you can stroll across the bridge without encountering the crowds that appear by midday. At dusk, the statues are the same, but the odd play of light turns the bridge and city panorama into something completely different than in the morning.

Romping Late at Night on Charles Bridge: "Peace, Love, Spare Change" describes the scene, as musicians, street performers, and flower people come out late at night to become one with the bridge. Why not join them?

Stepping into History at Karlstejn Castle: A 30-minute train ride south of Prague puts you in the most visited Czech landmark in the environs, built by Charles IV (Karel IV in Czech -- the namesake of Charles Bridge) in the 14th century to protect the Holy Roman Empire's crown jewels. This Romanesque hilltop bastion fits the image of the castles of medieval lore.

Jumping into "4-D" at Orlík: After exploring Orlík Castle, south of Prague, and taking a relaxing stroll through the gardens, you can jump into the fourth dimension, in a variation of bungee jumping. It's quite a pick-me-up.

Checking Out a Festive Beer Hall in Ceské Budejovice: Forget touristy remakes. In Bohemia's Ceské Budejovice, the spirit of Masné krámy conjures up the feel of an 18th-century Czech pub, and the brew is as fresh as the bread.

Enjoying New Year's Eve in Ceský Krumlov: At midnight in Bohemia's Ceský Krumlov, the Na plásti Bridge at the castle overlooking the town turns into a mini-United Nations, as revelers from all over gather to watch and light fireworks, see who can uncork the champagne the fastest, and just plain celebrate.

Relaxing in Trebon: If you're looking for a small Czech town not overrun with tourists, travel to Trebon in Bohemia. This serene place, surrounded by forests and ponds, is a diamond in the rough, a walled city that time, war, and disaster have failed to destroy.

Walking Through the Satov Wine Cellar: Some of the finest Moravian wine is produced at the Satov vineyard, and at this wine cellar you'll find more than the local product. The cellar's walls are carved and painted in intricate detail with scenes from Prague Castle and Snow White.